Retinol Guide

iho clean beauty
Sep 20, 2019
3 min read

Updated: Sep 24, 2019

Anti-aging, skin smoothing, brightening, acne relief...all benefits most of us would love, and all effects retinol can solve for. A magic ingredient? Still to be determined. A universally ingredient agreed upon product by dermatologists? Check.

Scroll through this Retinol Guide to learn:

What is Retinol?
Tips before you start using Retinol
How to Incorporate Retinol
What are recommended options?
Retinol Alternatives - what is Bakuchiol?

What is Retinol?

Retinol is a Vitamin-A derivative which stimulates the metabolism of skin cells and encourages collagen production. Retinol has quickly become known as a staple ingredient for those of us entering our late 20's, to those of us with mature skin, because of these sweeping, positive effects, explained further below.

"Retinol is a gold-standard ingredient in skin care because it alters the behavior of aged cells so they act in a more youthful manner. It smooths and refines skin's texture, enhances skin radiance and treats aging," Amanda von dem Hagen, a licensed esthetician and international educator for Glo Skin Beauty, told TODAY. [article to learn more, here]

Retinol benefits include:

Smoothed out fine lines & wrinkles
Reduced pore size
Decreased acne
Sun spot and acne scarring correction
Even skin tone, improved skin texture

Tips Before You Start

1. Start slow

Retinol is strong. Start by using it once every three nights to start, slowly building up to every other night, then every night. Side effects can (not a guarantee, don't be scared!) include drying or redness, so starting slow and moisturizing are key to avoiding this.

2. SPF

If you aren't using an SPF everyday, then #1 I am not doing my job as a skincare blogger, but #2 you must start with retinol. Retinol makes your skin more sensitive to UVA/UVB rays, so now's the time to protect your skin.

3. It's an Investment!

Both with price and time. Dermatologists agree it takes about six months to see effects, but since the biggest (for me) benefit is anti-aging, that's okay! But be aware you may not wake up glowing day #1 and it's not a quick fix product. In terms of price... well this I justify because hey, you're putting off botox!

4. Mixing with AHA/BHAs

To be honest...this is a tricky one. Most research out there says it's a myth, but to err on the side of caution I alternate nights with my Overnight Resurfacing Peel. I have read that waiting 30 minutes before adding your retinol is OK too, or doing an AM/PM switch off is a safe bet...My advice - alternate until you feel more comfortable!

Now, onto the exciting stuff...

How To Use Retinol

Start your nightly routine as usual, i.e. cleansing your skin, once your done, it's time for an evening sandwich! You heard me - even past 8pm!

The sandwich is what I learned when starting retinol, the trick is to "sandwich" the retinol between two layers of moisturizer to ensure you are getting maximum hydration. To note, this won't impact effectiveness!

Steps:

1. Moisturizer

2. A pea size of Retinol*

3. Moisturizer + Oil (if you use)

4. An overnight mask**

*I know what you are thinking, "I don't want wrinkles...I'm using a tablespoon for my strong skin!", been there done that girlfriend, it won't help you long-term and irritated skin isn't fun. Pea size.

**Overnight mask is optional, I love using one in general, but always add it on 'retinol nights' for added moisture.

If you see any skin irritation, discontinue use for a few days and rehab your skin with lots of moisture and try again! Your skin is getting a workout!

Which Retinol Should I Use?

You have options! There are prescription strength retinols which you can get from a dermatologist, and these are extremely strong. When I asked my esthetician if I should go down that route, she said to wait until fine lines are visible or if your acne is bothering you. If you are going OTC route, I've noted what I use below, as well as other clean options I've heard good things about.

I use Drunk Elephants A-Passoni Retinol, which is 1.0%. I've loved using it and have a few friends who have gotten it too and good reviews! Definitely rec checking it out.

What Are Retinol Alternatives AKA What is Bakuchiol?

Bakuchiol is a chemical compound with antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, and anti-bacterial properties extracted from the bakuchi plant seeds. This isn't the same thing as Retinol, but it mimics what Retinol does, in a much gentler manner. It revitalizes and refreshes skin, but is safe for use while pregnant or for sensitive skin. If you go the Bakuchiol route, you can use day/night and won't need to sandwich.